In the early 1800s, some noted artists captured the dress of
the Plains Indians in paintings and sketches.Based on these images, one can conclude that the use of ceremonial
shirts was not common at that time.During the next 100 years however, there was a significant evolution of
design and use of the Ceremonial shirt (sometimes referred to as a Warshirt).Perhaps
this coincided with the threat of the western expansion of settlers.The exact chronology of this evolution is
unknown but decorative elements of these shirts followed a pattern of available
materials which advanced from paint to porcupine quills to pony beads (large
beads) to seed beads and eventually leading to the use of ribbon and similar
trade goods.The tribes typically
ascribed as belonging to designation of Plains
include the following:
Arapaho
Assiniboine
Blackfeet
Cheyenne
Comanche
Cree
Crow
Kiowa
Pawnee
Sioux
Some of these tribes are thought to be the innovators of
various decorative designs and construction techniques for these shirts; but
the chronology is largely speculative and is confused by the exchange of goods
among the various tribes.Even when
there is documentation as to the procurement of an item, there can be questions
as to the original source of the item.There was also a common practice of taking decorative items from one
shirt and adding them to a newer shirt.This makes dating a given item equally difficult.Thus, associating a shirt with a given tribe
and time period is subject to a certain amount of speculation.
Ceremonial shirts were made to honor their male wearers and credit
the women that executed their intricate craftsmanship.The owner of a shirt earned the right to
wear it through acts of bravery such as:
Touching an enemy during battle
Capturing a weapon
Leading a war party
Stealing an enemy horse
Each shirt was
created to honor an individual.Some
shirts were thought to hold intrinsic spiritual power which was transferred to
the garment's owner or wearer.Shirts
were commonly made of Elk, Deer, and Mountain Sheep.When tanned properly using the animal's
brains and liver, the hide became soft and supple.Beaded and/or porcupine quill strips were
created to hide the seams.When a warrior
was dressed in his shirt, he embodied a level of achievement that inspired
others to emulate him.For example,
locks of hair represent coups, scalps, and captured horses.Human hair scalp-locks attached to a shirt
have great symbolism. Hair was considered an extension of a persons soul.For an Indian warrior to acquire hair from
another was to add his power and strength to his own.Extra courage and strength was always, needed
for the daily struggles which a young Indian warrior faced.
Native American languages have no word for art because
beauty exists as an element of nature and everyday existence.The very fiber of life begins with an
understanding of natural gifts and appreciation of the irrepressible forces of
nature.The Ceremonial shirt represents an
extension of nature and embodies the power of natural and spiritual
forces.Therefore, the wearer of the
shirt it was not a form of art but surely to anyone who views these rare and
magnificent articles of clothing, they represent an artistry that is fast
disappearing; this web site is an attempt to honor and preserve the glory of
this heritage.
Dresses
The adornment of Plains Indian dresses reflects the status
of the wearer within the tribe.Various
materials were used for this purpose including shells, beads, and animal teeth.
Cradles
Cradle making among the Plains tribes was considered a
ceremonial act.The decoration
represented status or rank and was a reflection of a family’s prestige.Cradles were often created by grandmothers
and were passed down through the generations within the family.
Pipe Bags
The pipe bag was the badge of office for the Pipe Owners
whose responsibilities were numerous.The pipe owners assigned various family groups their location within the
camp.They also decided the times for
the buffalo hunts and organized the hunt.In general, the pipe holders were chosen for their wisdom, integrity, bravery,
and generosity.